GUNUNG · Ekuador

Cayambe

Volcán Cayambe

Information

Elevation: 5.790 m
Country: Ekuador (EC)
Location / Range: Cordillera Central, Andes Ekuador, Provinsi Pichincha (sekitar 70 km timur laut Quito)
Mountain type: Stratovolcano berglasier (gunung tertinggi ketiga di Ekuador; titik tertinggi yang dilewati garis Khatulistiwa)
Volcanic?: Yes — volcano
Coordinates: 0.0239, -77.9888
Difficulty: Berat (pendakian glasier teknis: crampon, ice axe, tali; banyak rekahan/crevasse)
Best Season: Sepanjang tahun, kondisi paling kering umumnya Juni–Desember (variasi cuaca khatulistiwa besar)
Permits & Rules: Berada di Reserva Ecológica Cayambe-Coca; pendakian glasier praktis wajib memakai pemandu bersertifikat (ASEGUIM) — bukan untuk pemula
Hazards: Crevasse tersembunyi, serac & longsoran salju/es (risiko meningkat setelah matahari terbit), penyakit ketinggian, cuaca berubah cepat, suhu beku di garis nol lintang

Description

Cayambe (5,790 m) is a glacier-clad volcano in the Cordillera Central of the Ecuadorian Andes, about 70 km northeast of Quito in Pichincha Province. It is Ecuador's third-highest peak and—uniquely—the highest point on Earth's surface directly crossed by the Equator, often described as the only place where both latitude and temperature reach zero. Climbs normally start from the Oleas-Berge (Ruales-Oleas-Berge) refuge at roughly 4,600–4,700 m, reachable by 4x4, then follow a crevassed glacier in the pre-dawn hours to summit at sunrise and descend before the snow softens. Compared with Cotopaxi's gentler normal route, Cayambe is considered more technically demanding because of its winding, heavily crevassed glacier, making it a favourite 'glacier school' and a fitness test on the way to Chimborazo.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Ruta Normal (Cara Sur, via Refugio Oleas-Berge)

Berat (PD/PD+ — pendakian glasier teknis dengan crampon, ice axe & tali)

+1150 m 2 hari (1 malam di refugio; summit-day ±7–9 jam pulang-pergi)

The most common route. A 4x4 reaches the Ruales-Oleas-Berge refuge (about 4,600–4,700 m). After acclimatisation and glacier practice, climbers start before dawn (around midnight) up the crevassed southern glacier, weaving through crevasse zones and snow/ice slopes to the true summit for a sunrise top-out, then descend before the snow softens and serac/avalanche risk rises. Less steep than the technical lines, but crevasse navigation and altitude make it demanding—often used as preparation for Chimborazo.

Travesía de cumbres / Picos orientales (varian lanjutan)

Sangat berat (AD — alpinisme glasier lanjutan)

+1200 m 2–3 hari

Cayambe has several summits (the main top and eastern peaks). A traverse variant or a line following the ridges and ice domes farther east adds length, exposure, and glacier complexity over the normal route. Chosen by experienced climbers wanting a greater technical challenge; it requires solid glacier navigation, crevasse management, and stable snow conditions.

Climbing Experiences

Cayambe (5,790 m) in Ecuador is a glaciated volcano crossed by the Equator. Climbers highlight crevasse navigation, pre-dawn starts from the Oleas-Berge refuge, and terrain more technical than Cotopaxi—often a 'glacier school' on the way to Chimborazo.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.