GUNUNG · Pakistan / China

Broad Peak

Broad Peak (K3) / فلک سر (Falchan Kangri)

Information

Elevation: 8.051 m
Country: Pakistan / China (PK)
Location / Range: Karakoram (Gasherbrum massif), Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan) – Xinjiang (China) border
Mountain type: Mountain peak (non-volcanic, Karakoram rock)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 35.8106, 76.5681
Difficulty: Extreme (an eight-thousander summit); technically considered easier than K2, but still deadly due to altitude, weather, and a long, deceptive summit
Best Season: Late June–August (Karakoram summer) for summit attempts; the approach trek to Concordia/base camp is best in July–August
Permits & Rules: Climbing permit from the Gilgit-Baltistan government/Alpine Club of Pakistan, plus a liaison officer and guide/porters; approach via Askole and the Baltoro Glacier
Hazards: Extreme altitude and risk of edema, avalanches and rockfall, fast-moving storms, a main summit far from the fore-summit (many climbers mistakenly stop at the fore-summit), crevasses on the Baltoro Glacier

Description

Broad Peak (8,051 m), known locally as Falchan Kangri and once labelled K3, is the 12th-highest mountain in the world and part of the Gasherbrum massif in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan) and Xinjiang (China). Its name reflects the unusually broad summit, whose crest extends more than 1.5 km. Standing only about 8 km from K2, it was first climbed on 8–9 June 1957 by a small Austrian expedition (Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl) in pure alpine style: without supplemental oxygen, high-altitude porters or base-camp support. The normal route follows the West Spur from the Baltoro Glacier. Although considered one of the technically easier 8,000ers, Broad Peak remains deadly: its true summit lies far along the summit ridge beyond a fore-summit, so many climbers mistakenly believe they have topped out at the lower point.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute Normal — West Spur

Ekstrem (8.000-an; salju/es, secara teknis lebih ringan dari K2)

Ekspedisi ±5–7 minggu (termasuk trek pendekatan & aklimatisasi)

Broad Peak's standard route follows the West Spur from the Baltoro Glacier side — the same line as the 1957 first ascent. Climbers establish a chain of camps up snow and ice slopes to roughly Camp 4 (~7,400 m), then traverse the long summit ridge. The crux is not technical rock but extreme altitude, weather, and the fact that the true summit lies well beyond a fore-summit, making it easy to mistakenly stop short.

Source

Trek Pendekatan Baltoro → Concordia → Base Camp

Berat (trekking gletser ketinggian tinggi, bukan pendakian puncak)

±7–9 hari trekking dari Askole ke base camp

The classic approach to Broad Peak base camp follows the Baltoro Glacier from the village of Askole, passing Paiju, Urdukas and Concordia — the glacial amphitheatre ringed by K2, Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums. This long glacier trek is an experience in itself, often called one of the world's best treks, and a key acclimatization stage before any summit bid.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Broad Peak (8,051 m) is the world's 12th-highest mountain in the Karakoram, a neighbour of K2, with the West Spur normal route from the Baltoro Glacier. The videos and articles below document real experiences on the peak — from a documentary on its dangers and coverage of a busy climbing season with many successful summits, to a 14-peaks record story that touches on Broad Peak, plus expedition dispatches and climbing history.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.