GUNUNG · Switzerland

Bishorn

Information

Elevation: 4.153 m
Country: Switzerland (CH)
Location / Range: Alpen Pennine (Valais), pada punggungan yang menghubungkan ke Weisshorn di atas Zinal dan lembah Turtmann
Mountain type: Puncak bersalju-gletser non-vulkanik di Alpen Pennine (Valais); punya dua puncak — Bishorn utama (4.153 m) dan Pointe Burnaby (±4.135 m)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.1179, 7.7151
Difficulty: Berat namun secara teknis paling mudah di antara 4000er — sering disebut '4000er termudah' atau gunung 4000 pertama yang ideal. Voie normale via gletser bersalju tanpa panjat teknis berarti, tetapi tetap butuh crampon, kapak es, tali, dan teknik glasial
Best Season: Pertengahan Juni–September (kondisi salju & gletser stabil); mulai dini hari dari Cabane de Tracuit untuk salju keras
Permits & Rules: Tanpa izin formal. Umumnya menginap di Cabane de Tracuit (3.256 m, SAC/CAS) sebelum serangan puncak; reservasi pondok wajib pada musim ramai
Hazards: Retakan gletser (crevasse) di Turtmanngletscher, altitude di atas 4.000 m, cornice salju dekat puncak, cuaca cepat berubah & badai petir, serta salju lunak siang hari; meski 'mudah', kematian tetap terjadi akibat crevasse dan kesalahan pengamanan tali

Description

The Bishorn (4,153 m) is a snowy peak in the Pennine Alps of Valais, Switzerland, standing on the ridge that links to the mighty Weisshorn above the town of Zinal and the Turtmann valley. It is widely known as 'the easiest 4000er' or the ideal first four-thousander: its normal route is essentially a snow-glacier walk with no significant technical rock climbing, making it a popular objective for those wanting their first 4,000 m summit. Even so, 'easy' is relative — the climb still demands crampon, ice-axe and rope skills on the crevassed Turtmann glacier. The standard pattern is a night at the Cabane de Tracuit (3,256 m), perched high above the Zinal valley, then a pre-dawn start across the Turtmann glacier and up the final firn slopes to the summit. The Bishorn has two summits — the main Bishorn (4,153 m) and the Pointe Burnaby (~4,135 m) — and from the top the Weisshorn rises dramatically just in front, giving one of the most striking panoramas in the Valais.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Traversée turun ke Zinal via Col de Tracuit

PD (Peu Difficile); penurunan gletser dan medan menuju Col de Tracuit / Pas du Chasseur

Variasi turun dari puncak menuju Zinal (beberapa jam tambahan)

As a descent alternative, some parties do not return by the ascent line but traverse down toward Zinal via the Col de Tracuit and Pas du Chasseur. This adds variety and scenery but lengthens the day and still demands careful glacier and timing management so the snow stays in good condition.

Source

Voie normale — Nordwest-Flank dari Cabane de Tracuit (via Turtmanngletscher)

F/PD (Facile–Peu Difficile); course gletser bersalju tanpa panjat teknis berarti — 4000er termudah, tetap butuh crampon, kapak es, dan tali

2 hari (hari 1: pendekatan panjang & menanjak ke Cabane de Tracuit; hari 2: ±2,5–3,5 jam ke puncak, PP dari pondok ±4–6 jam)

The normal and most popular route on the Bishorn. Day one is a long, fairly tiring approach to the Cabane de Tracuit (3,256 m, SAC/CAS), a fine hut perched high above the Zinal valley. Day two begins before dawn: from the hut, cross the Turtmann glacier eastward to near the saddle at about 3,543 m, then climb southeast over firn slopes and a steeper final rise to the Bishorn summit (4,153 m) in about 2.5–3.5 hours. Although technically easy, the crevassed glacier requires the team to be roped and vigilant; most descend the same way, while some continue a traverse down to Zinal via the Col de Tracuit.

Route Segments

1

Zinal → Cabane de Tracuit

⏱ 4–5 jam 3.256 mdpl

Pendekatan panjang & menanjak; hari pertama menginap di pondok SAC
2

Cabane de Tracuit → Turtmanngletscher (sadel ±3543 m)

⏱ 1–1,5 jam 3.543 mdpl

Berangkat sebelum fajar; masuk gletser dengan crampon dan tali; waspada crevasse
3

Lereng firn tenggara → Puncak Bishorn

⏱ 1,5–2 jam 4.153 mdpl

Tanjakan firn akhir yang lebih curam; cornice dekat puncak; panorama Weisshorn tepat di depan

Source

Climbing Experiences

The Bishorn (4,153 m) is one of the most popular alpine objectives for those chasing a first 4,000 m summit, because its normal route is a snow-glacier walk with no serious technical climbing. The usual pattern is a long, uphill first-day approach to the Cabane de Tracuit (3,256 m) perched above the Zinal valley, then a pre-dawn start across the Turtmann glacier and up the final firn slopes to the summit in about 2.5–3.5 hours from the hut. Recurring experience reports stress the same things: the Weisshorn standing right in front of the summit, the need to rope up for crevasses, the beauty of sunrise on the glacier, and that 'easy' does not mean risk-free. Some parties continue down to Zinal via the Col de Tracuit as a traverse.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.