GUNUNG · Pakistan

Batura Sar

Batura Sar / Batura I (بتورا سر)

Information

Elevation: 7.795 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Batura Muztagh, Karakoram
Mountain type: Gunung non-vulkanik Karakoram
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 36.5100, 74.5225
Difficulty: Ekspedisi alpinisme: dinding es, kamp tinggi dan cuaca buruk; trek Gletser Batura merupakan perjalanan berbeda.
Best Season: Laporan pendakian 1983 berlangsung Mei–Juni; ini catatan historis, bukan jaminan kondisi musim sekarang.
Permits & Rules: Rencanakan perizinan dan logistik bersama penyelenggara sebelum keberangkatan; laporan historis bukan acuan aturan akses terkini.
Hazards: Longsoran salju, celah gletser, salju lepas, badai dan cedera saat turun; ekspedisi 2020 dihentikan karena salju serta risiko longsoran.

Description

Batura Sar, or Batura I (7,795 m), is the highest peak of the Batura Muztagh in Pakistan’s Karakoram. Wikidata places it at 36.51° N, 74.5225° E. The Göppingen team made the first ascent in 1976 from the Baltar side. Edi Koblmüller’s firsthand account describes an Austrian new route in 1983 approached from Aliabad across the Muchiohul Glacier. Filmmaker Oswald Rodrigo Pereira’s account of the 2020 winter expedition records a high point of 6,600 m before snowfall and avalanche danger ended the attempt. The Batura Glacier trek provides a regional experience separate from the technical summit expedition.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Jalur Austria 1983 via Muchiohul — catatan historis puncak

Alpinisme ekspedisi; dua undakan curam dan bivak tinggi

Koblmüller describes a four-day approach from Aliabad across the Muchiohul Glacier to Batura’s southern foot. The team established three camps, fixed rope on two steps and reached the summit on 25 June 1983. This documents a historical line left of the 1976 route, not navigation instructions or confirmation of present-day access.

Source

Trek Gletser Batura (dari Passu) — rute trekking populer

Operator menandai Difficult; perjalanan gletser

7 hari dalam itinerary operator 15 hari

Great Karakoram Expeditions’ itinerary leaves Passu for Yunzbin, Yashpirt, Kukhil and Guchism, followed by a Lupdor excursion and a return via Putmahal and Yashpirt. Days 4–10 are allocated to trekking. This visits the glacier and pastures with Batura Wall views; it does not ascend Batura Sar.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Batura experiences include technical climbing and glacier exploration. The Austrian 1983 report records a summit success; the 2020 account describes an abandoned winter attempt. Trekking films and the exploration report cover the Batura Glacier area rather than the summit route. The accident report illustrates serious descent hazards.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.