GUNUNG · Pakistan

Batura Sar

Batura Sar / Batura I (بتورا سر)

Information

Elevation: 7.795 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Batura Muztagh — subrange paling barat Pegunungan Karakoram; di atas Lembah Gojal/Passu, Distrik Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan
Mountain type: Puncak es-batuan metamorf/granit Karakoram (non-vulkanik); titik tertinggi Batura Muztagh dan puncak Batura Wall
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 36.5100, 74.5225
Difficulty: Sangat sulit & berbahaya (ekspedisi alpinisme kelas atas) — jarang didaki karena tembok es panjang, seracs, dan risiko longsoran salju tinggi; bukan untuk pendaki rekreasi
Best Season: Pertengahan Juni–Agustus (musim panas Karakoram); jendela cuaca stabil sangat sempit
Permits & Rules: Wajib izin & royalti puncak dari pemerintah Pakistan (peak >7.000 m) plus operator berlisensi dan porter lokal; pendekatan lewat Passu
Hazards: Longsoran salju dan runtuhan serac di sepanjang tembok es; celah gletser (crevasse) di Gletser Batura; penyakit ketinggian ekstrem di atas 7.000 m; cuaca badai mendadak; medan sangat terpencil dengan evakuasi sulit — beberapa upaya berujung tragedi

Description

Batura Sar (7,795 m), also known as Batura I, is the 25th-highest mountain on Earth and the culminating peak of the Batura Muztagh, the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram. It rises above the Gojal Valley near the village of Passu in Hunza District, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, forming the apex of the "Batura Wall" — a long crest that stays continuously high without dropping far below 7,000 m, one of the most massive mountain walls in the world. Below it flows the roughly 57 km Batura Glacier, among the longest non-polar glaciers on Earth. The summit was first reached on 30 June 1976 by a German-Austrian expedition; since then Batura Sar has been climbed very rarely because of its long routes, steep ice walls, high avalanche and serac danger, and harsh Karakoram weather. For most visitors the "Batura experience" means trekking along the Batura Glacier or day-hiking to the Passu Glacier and Passu Cones from the Karakoram Highway — not attempting the summit. As a non-volcanic mountain, Batura is built of Karakoram rock uplifted by plate collision rather than by volcanism.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Ekspedisi Puncak Batura Sar (Batura I) — jalur ekspedisi

Sangat sulit (ekspedisi alpinisme kelas atas) — dinding es panjang, risiko longsoran & serac

Ekspedisi beberapa minggu (aklimatisasi + kamp tinggi)

The commercial expedition to the 7,795 m summit generally begins at Passu village, treks in beside the Batura Glacier to base camp, then climbs expedition-style with a series of high camps. The mountain is very rarely summited: the 1976 German-Austrian first ascent reached the top from the Baltar side, while later south-face attempts proved avalanche-prone. For experienced teams only, with official Pakistani permits and royalties and a licensed operator.

Source

Trek Gletser Batura (dari Passu) — rute trekking populer

Sedang (trek gletser) — perlu pemandu lokal karena celah es & reruntuhan bergeser

Sekitar 5–7 hari trekking (paket lengkap ~15 hari termasuk perjalanan)

A trek starting from Passu village in Upper Hunza that follows the roughly 57–60 km Batura Glacier past pastures such as Yashpirt, Guchesham and Lupdor, with views of Batura Sar, Passu Peak, Shispare and Ultar. Best attempted June–September with a local guide because of crevasses and shifting glacier debris. It is the most common way to experience the Batura area without climbing the summit.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Because the summit of Batura Sar (7,795 m) is climbed only very rarely, real experiences in this area fall into two kinds: serious alpine expedition reports on the peak itself (including some that ended in tragedy) and popular treks along the Batura Glacier and Passu Glacier from Passu village on the Karakoram Highway. The sources below document verified, live real-world experiences on the Batura mountain and glacier.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.