GUNUNG · Prancis

Barre des Écrins

Information

Elevation: 4.102 m
Country: Prancis (FR)
Location / Range: Pegunungan Alpen — Massif des Écrins (Alpen Dauphiné)
Mountain type: Puncak batu & es alpine (non-vulkanik, orogenik)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 44.9167, 6.3333
Difficulty: Sangat berat (mountaineering alpine bergletser; butuh crampon, kapak es, tali, dan aklimatisasi)
Best Season: Pertengahan Juni–September (musim panas alpine)
Permits & Rules: Tidak ada izin puncak formal; berada di dalam Taman Nasional Écrins sehingga berlaku aturan konservasi. Reservasi Refuge des Écrins sangat dianjurkan, begitu pula memakai pemandu bersertifikat
Hazards: Celah gletser (crevasse) di Glacier Blanc, punggungan puncak yang terekspos, jatuhan batu & es, badai petir, dan ketinggian (AMS)

Description

The Barre des Écrins (4,102 m) is the highest peak of the Massif des Écrins and the southernmost 4,000 m mountain in the entire Alps, standing in the Hautes-Alpes department of France within the Écrins National Park. Before Savoy (and Mont Blanc) joined France in 1860, it was the country's highest point. Its summit was first reached in 1864 by Edward Whymper with guides Christian Almer and Michel Croz. Climbing it demands full alpine skills: crossing the Glacier Blanc, ascending the snow dome of the Dôme de Neige des Écrins (4,015 m), then following an exposed rocky summit ridge to the main barre. Although its normal route is of moderate alpine grade, fast-changing weather and glaciated terrain keep it a serious undertaking.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Traversée Barre des Écrins (arête sommitale)

AD ; punggungan puncak lebih panjang & terekspos

2 hari (bermalam di Refuge des Écrins)

A variation that more fully traverses the summit ridge of the Barre des Écrins, linking the western and eastern tops along the arête sommitale before descending back to the Brèche Lory. It is more exposed and technical than simply reaching the main summit, suited to climbers experienced on alpine ridges.

Source

Voie Normale via Dôme de Neige des Écrins

PD+/AD- ; pendakian salju & es alpine dengan punggungan puncak berbatu terekspos

2 hari (bermalam di Refuge des Écrins)

The normal and most popular route. From the Ailefroide/Pré de Madame Carle valley, hike up to the Refuge des Écrins (3,170 m) at the edge of the Glacier Blanc. Summit before dawn across the glacier, up the snow dome of the Dôme de Neige des Écrins (4,015 m), down to the Brèche Lory, then along an exposed rocky summit ridge to the main barre (4,102 m). The main hazards are glacier crevasses and the narrow summit ridge.

Route Segments

1

Pré de Madame Carle → Refuge des Écrins

3.170 mdpl

Jalur pendakian melewati Glacier Blanc menuju refuge
2

Refuge → Dôme de Neige des Écrins

4.015 mdpl

Menyeberangi gletser dan menaiki kubah salju
3

Brèche Lory → Puncak (Barre)

4.102 mdpl

Punggungan puncak berbatu terekspos ke barre utama

Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbing the Barre des Écrins (4,102 m) usually takes 2 days from the Vallouise/Ailefroide valley via the normal route: hiking up to the Refuge des Écrins (3,170 m) at the edge of the Glacier Blanc, then summiting before dawn across the glacier, up the snow dome of the Dôme de Neige des Écrins (4,015 m), down slightly to the Brèche Lory, and along an exposed rocky summit ridge to the main barre. Climbers stress acclimatization, roping up and crampons on the glacier, a very early start to avoid soft snow, and readiness to abort if the weather deteriorates.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.