GUNUNG · India

Bandarpunch

बंदरपूँछ

Massif Swargarohini dan Bandarpunch di Garhwal Himalaya dilihat dari kejauhan dari Landour — foto lanskap kawasan, bukan close-up puncak spesifik. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 6.316 m
Country: India (IN)
Location / Range: Garhwal Himalaya (dekat Yamunotri & Swargarohini), Uttarakhand
Mountain type: Puncak ekspedisi mendaki bersalju/berglasier di Garhwal Himalaya; massif dengan beberapa puncak (Bandarpunch I, White Peak/Bandarpunch II, dan Kalanag/Black Peak di dekatnya)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 30.9992, 78.5417
Difficulty: Berat/teknis — puncak ekspedisi ber-glasier 6.316 m; perlu pemandu, tali, dan perlengkapan alpine, bukan trek jalan kaki biasa
Best Season: Mei–Juni dan pasca-monsun (September–Oktober)
Permits & Rules: Puncak ekspedisi mendaki — perlu izin pendakian (IMF) dan tim berpemandu; base camp umumnya dicapai lewat lembah Sukhi/Chaiyyan (sisi Gangotri) atau pendekatan Har-ki-Dun/Ruinsara
Hazards: Medan berglasier dan bercelah (crevasse), risiko longsoran salju, ketinggian ekstrem, serta cuaca badai di ketinggian

Description

Bandarpunch (6,316 m; the name means 'monkey's tail') is a large peak in the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand, India, standing near Yamunotri and the Swargarohini massif. It is not a walking trek but a glaciated mountaineering objective with several summits — Bandarpunch I (6,316 m), White Peak/Bandarpunch II (about 6,102 m), and neighbouring Kalanag or Black Peak (about 6,387 m). The mountain holds a special place in Indian climbing history: known as 'The Doon School Mountain' through a run of expeditions pioneered by Jack Gibson from the 1930s, its main summit was first reached in 1950 by a team including Tenzing Norgay with Roy Greenwood and Kin Chok Tshering. The standard south-east route — first climbed by the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM) in 1975 — runs from a base camp in the Sukhi/Chaiyyan valley across crevassed glacier terrain that demands technical skill and guides.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Pendekatan sisi Har-ki-Dun / Ruinsara (Sankri → Taluka → Seema → base camp)

Menengah–berat: pendekatan trekking lalu push puncak teknis; kebugaran tinggi & pemandu diperlukan

Bagian puncak ~7–8 hari (pendekatan trek + push puncak teknis)

An alternative approach from the western/Har-ki-Dun side via Sankri, Taluka and Seema to a base camp before the summit push. It combines a trekking approach with a technical summit section; it demands good fitness and technical experience, with a best season around June–September. A guide is strongly recommended.

Source

Rute punggung tenggara (base camp lembah Sukhi/Chaiyyan, sisi Gangotri)

Berat/teknis (demanding) — gletser bercelah, medan alpine, puncak ekspedisi 6.316 m

~19 hari ekspedisi penuh (±2 hari mendaki ke base camp lalu camp-camp alpine bertingkat)

The standard Bandarpunch climbing line, first climbed by the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering in 1975. Base camp is reached via the Sukhi/Chaiyyan valley from the Gangotri road, followed by higher camps on glaciated terrain. The section between Camp 1 and the summit crosses crevassed ground demanding technical skill, ropes and guides. It is graded a 'demanding' expedition, not a walking climb.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Bandarpunch is a mountaineering expedition peak, not a day trek, so its record consists more of expedition reports and field footage than tourist vlogs. Available accounts describe a multi-camp climb from a base camp in the Sukhi/Chaiyyan valley on the Gangotri side, crevassed glacier terrain, and the mountain's history as 'The Doon School Mountain' and site of the 1950 first ascent involving Tenzing Norgay.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.