GUNUNG · Pakistan

Baintha Brakk

拜塔布拉克峰 / The Ogre

Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) I dan II, Karakoram, Pakistan. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.285 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Panmah Muztagh, Pegunungan Karakoram — Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan; di dekat Gletser Biafo dan Baintha (Snow Lake)
Mountain type: Puncak granit-es 7.000-an non-vulkanik yang sangat terjal; dijuluki 'The Ogre' (Sang Raksasa)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 35.9478, 75.7536
Difficulty: Ekstrem — dianggap salah satu 7.000-an tersulit di dunia; hanya berhasil didaki tiga kali dalam ~35 tahun pertama. Murni untuk alpinis teknis elite
Best Season: Musim panas Karakoram, sekitar Juni–Agustus
Permits & Rules: Izin ekspedisi/peak fee Gilgit-Baltistan, pemandu & porter dari Askole via operator resmi; akses lewat trek Gletser Biafo–Baintha
Hazards: Tebing granit dan pilar es vertikal, cuaca Karakoram yang ganas, jalur turun yang panjang dan berbahaya (kisah epik Doug Scott turun dengan dua kaki patah pada 1977), risiko badai berhari-hari

Description

Baintha Brakk (7,285 m), far better known as 'The Ogre', is a granite-and-ice peak in the Panmah Muztagh of the Karakoram, in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, near the Biafo Glacier and the Baintha (Snow Lake) basin. It has a reputation as one of the hardest 7,000 m peaks on Earth: more than twenty expeditions have attempted it, yet only three reached the summit in its first roughly 35 years. The 1977 first ascent by British climbers Doug Scott and Chris Bonington produced one of mountaineering's most legendary survival epics — on the descent Scott fell on the first rappel and broke both legs, then crawled and lowered himself down the mountain for days through a storm, with Bonington also injured. The Ogre then repelled all comers until the second ascent in 2001 by Thomas Huber, Urs Stocker, and Iwan Wolf via the south pillar, followed by the third ascent in 2012 by Americans Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy via the south face — a feat honored with a Piolet d'Or. The combination of vertical granite, ice, altitude, and a long dangerous descent makes Baintha Brakk a symbol of true Karakoram difficulty. Access is via a long trek up the Biafo Glacier from Askole.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Selatan / Pilar Selatan (pendakian ke-2 2001 & ke-3 2012)

Big wall alpine ekstrem — granit vertikal di 7.000-an

Ekspedisi multi-minggu, beberapa hari di dinding

The Ogre's south side hosted the next two historic ascents: the south pillar by Thomas Huber, Urs Stocker and Iwan Wolf in 2001, then the south face by Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy in 2012 — a new route awarded a Piolet d'Or.

Source

Jalur Barat / Punggungan Barat Daya (pendakian pertama 1977)

Alpine/ekspedisi ekstrem — granit & es curam, jalur turun berbahaya

Ekspedisi multi-minggu

The 1977 first-ascent route on Baintha Brakk by Doug Scott and Chris Bonington. Famous not only for the climb but for the epic descent: Scott fell and broke both legs, then crawled down for days through a storm — illustrating how dangerous the Ogre's descent terrain is.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Experiences on Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) are almost entirely about extreme difficulty: a rarely climbed granite-and-ice wall, and above all Doug Scott's survival crawl down the mountain with two broken legs in 1977. The available footage and analyses highlight why it is called one of the hardest 7,000 m peaks on Earth, and its three historic ascents (1977, 2001, 2012).

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.