GUNUNG · Peru

Artesonraju

Nevado Artesonraju

Information

Elevation: 6.025 m
Country: Peru (PE)
Location / Range: Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán National Park, Huaylas Province, Ancash, Peru
Mountain type: Pyramidal glacial peak (glacial horn)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: -8.9500, -77.6333
Difficulty: Extremely strenuous (technical, ice and glacier; all routes are graded D or D+ on the French scale)
Best Season: June–September (Andean dry season — more stable weather)
Permits & Rules: A Huascarán National Park entry permit (PEN) is required; climbing is generally done with a registered guide or operator
Hazards: Ice and snow avalanches, crevasses, changeable glacier conditions, altitude sickness (AMS/HAPE), and sudden weather changes

Description

Artesonraju (6,025 m) is a glacial pyramidal peak in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru — widely recognised as the inspiration for the iconic Paramount Pictures logo, owing to its near-perfect triangular summit. Located in Huascarán National Park, Huaylas Province, Ancash Region, the peak was first climbed on 19 August 1932 by Erwin Schneider and Erich Hein (German-Austrian expedition) via the North Ridge. Climbing demands solid technical ice-craft — all routes are rated D or D+ on the French Alpine scale. Two main routes ascend the summit: the Southeast Face (D, via Parón Valley) and the North Ridge (D+, via Santa Cruz Valley). Artesonraju is typically climbed in a 4–7 day expedition from Caraz, covering approach, high camp at ~4,250 m, and acclimatisation before the summit push.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Wajah Tenggara / Southeast Face (via Lembah Parón)

D (Difficile) — teknis es/salju, crampon wajib

+1775 m 5–6 hari (termasuk pendekatan dan aklimatisasi)

Most commonly used approach, starting from Caraz (2,256 m) via a ~32 km dirt road to Laguna Parón. A path along the lake's north shore leads to base camp (~4,250 m). After 1–2 days of acclimatisation, teams move to high camp (~5,100 m) and push for the summit pre-dawn via the snowy and ice Southeast Face. Route conditions vary yearly with glacier retreat — always verify current conditions with a local guide.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Artesonraju (6,025 m) is a full technical ice climb in the Cordillera Blanca — crampons, ice axe and rope work are mandatory. Standard expeditions last 4–7 days from Caraz: approach via Laguna Parón (Southeast Face) or Santa Cruz Valley (North Ridge), base camp at ~4,250 m, acclimatisation, then a pre-dawn summit push. An IFMGA guide or registered local operator is strongly advised as glacier conditions vary year to year.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.