GUNUNG · Ecuador

Antisana

Volcán Antisana

Information

Elevation: 5.753 m
Country: Ecuador (EC)
Location / Range: Cordillera Oriental (Andes Utara), Ekuador
Mountain type: Gunung berapi (stratovolcano bergletser)
Volcanic?: Yes — volcano
Coordinates: -0.4814, -78.1408
Difficulty: Berat — pendakian gletser teknis (crevasse, serac) untuk pendaki berpengalaman
Best Season: Desember–Februari dan Juni–Agustus (jendela cuaca paling stabil)
Permits & Rules: Berada dalam Kawasan Ekologi Antisana; akses terbatas dan biasanya wajib pemandu bersertifikat ASEGUIM serta koordinasi izin masuk.
Hazards: Gletser penuh crevasse dan serac yang berubah-ubah, cuaca ekstrem dan berkabut, ketinggian di atas 5.700 m, serta keterpencilan yang membuat evakuasi sulit. Rute menuntut tim bertali dan teknik glasier.

Description

Antisana (5,753 m) is a glaciated stratovolcano in Ecuador's Cordillera Oriental, the country's fourth-highest volcano, standing about 50 km southeast of Quito. Unlike its busy neighbour Cotopaxi, Antisana is rarely climbed: much of its terrain lies within the protected Antisana Ecological Reserve, with vast páramo grasslands, lakes, and an important Andean condor population. Its thick, crevassed and serac-riddled glacier makes it a genuinely technical climb—far more than a snow walk—so it is generally attempted only by experienced mountaineers with ASEGUIM guides. That very remoteness, wildlife, and serious ice make Antisana a favourite proving ground for higher peaks. The normal route follows the northwest side from a base camp around 4,700–5,000 m up to the summit ice cap.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Antisana 'Trek & Climb' 7 Hari (pemandu ASEGUIM)

Menengah, ketinggian tinggi — lereng akhir 38–45°

7 hari

A 7-day walk-in approach (not a drive-in) using staged camps — Papallacta, Laguna Volcan (3,400 m), polylepis forest, Santa Lucia (4,300 m), Chusolongo Grande (4,600 m) — for progressive acclimatization before the summit push. Glacier base camp sits at 4,600 m, with final snow slopes of 38–45° and complex crevasse patterns, about 6 hours to the top. Led by certified ASEGUIM guides, with reserve permit and horse/mule support included.

Source

Antisana 2 Hari (Andes Trek — base camp 4.533 m)

Teknis, ketinggian tinggi

2 hari (opsi perpanjangan 3 hari)

A 2-day expedition with a base camp around 4,533 m on the west side, then above 4,600 m tackling steep moderate snow slopes, hard-ice sections, and complex glacier travel. Summit day starts pre-dawn, roughly 8 hours up and 4 down, demanding crevasse-travel skills and glacier navigation. The package includes the national-park permit and a guide.

Source

Rute Normal (Gletser Barat Laut / La Virgen)

Teknis menengah — wajib keterampilan gletser (PD/AD)

2 hari (summit ~6–8 jam dari kemah)

Antisana's standard route starts from a glacier camp around 4,600–4,750 m (the La Virgen area), then climbs on crampons through moderate snow slopes and a maze of crevasses and seracs to the 5,753 m summit. It is no walk-up: rope, ice axe and glacier technique are required, taking roughly 6–8 hours up and 2–3 down. Best season is December–February, with a reserve permit and guide mandatory.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Antisana (5,753 m) is a heavily glaciated stratovolcano, Ecuador's fourth highest peak, about 50 km southeast of Quito inside the remote, permit-controlled Antisana Ecological Reserve. It is a serious glacier climb with no walk-up routes — the normal route threads a maze of crevasses beneath towering seracs from a high camp (there is no refuge) around 4,500–4,750 m, requiring rope, crampons and ice-axe skills. The reserve is prized for its páramo and Andean condors, and the mountain is often used as acclimatization preparation for higher peaks such as Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.