GUNUNG · Italia

Antelao

Monte Antelao — dijuluki "Re delle Dolomiti" (Raja Dolomites)

Information

Elevation: 3.264 m
Country: Italia (IT)
Location / Range: Dolomites, Cadore, Veneto
Mountain type: Puncak dolomit non-vulkanik
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.4525, 12.2606
Difficulty: Alpinisme PD+ / UIAA II+; laporan pascalongsor mencatat bagian pendek II+/III− dekat punggungan puncak.
Best Season: Musim panas–awal musim gugur; kondisi salju dan es harus diperiksa menjelang pendakian.
Permits & Rules: Konfirmasi akses, kondisi jalur, dan reservasi bermalam langsung dengan pengelola Rifugio Galassi.
Hazards: Laste licin dengan kerikil lepas, cengia dan punggungan terpapar, batu jatuh, serta salju atau es. Longsor 2014 mengubah bagian atas rute dan menghancurkan Bivacco Cosi; jangan mengandalkan bivak itu sebagai tempat berlindung.

Description

Antelao is a non-volcanic peak in Cadore, Veneto, known as the King of the Dolomites. Wikidata records 3,264 m, while English Wikipedia uses 3,263 m. Rifugio Galassi stands below Forcella Piccola rather than on the col itself. The normal route crosses La Bala and the inclined Le Laste slabs before reaching an exposed summit ridge. A 2014 rockfall changed the upper slabs and destroyed Bivacco Cosi. Post-rockfall accounts show that describing the whole climb as grade I understates it: there are II+ passages and short II+/III− sections, with a demanding descent too.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Via normale — San Vito di Cadore, Forcella Piccola dan Le Laste

PD+ / UIAA II+; bagian pendek II+/III− pada punggungan atas.

Sekitar 6 jam naik / 11 jam pulang-pergi pada laporan 2019; dapat dibagi dengan bermalam di Rifugio Galassi.

From Baita Sun Bar, approach Rifugio Scotter and Forcella Piccola. Cross La Bala and Le Laste to the summit ridge, returning the same way. Simone Centa’s report records 2,260 m of cumulative ascent. Bivacco Cosi was destroyed and cannot serve as a planned shelter. Timings are route estimates, not guaranteed schedules.

Source

Climbing Experiences

This collection combines normal-route videos with written accounts from after the 2014 rockfall. Il Giupet recalls a tiring descent after a 05:00 start, while TrailLovers highlights slippery slabs with limited protection. Simone Centa encountered hard snow in the final 250 vertical metres in September 2019. These are individual trip conditions, not a guarantee of the route’s present state.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.