GUNUNG · Italia

Antelao

Monte Antelao — dijuluki "Re delle Dolomiti" (Raja Dolomites)

Information

Elevation: 3.264 m
Country: Italia (IT)
Location / Range: Dolomiti d'Oltrepiave/Cadore, provinsi Belluno, Veneto — bagian Dolomites (Warisan Dunia UNESCO)
Mountain type: Puncak dolomit menjulang, tertinggi kedua di Dolomites dan tertinggi di Cadore
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.4525, 12.2606
Difficulty: Sulit — via normale alpine dengan cengia terpapar dan batu grade I di bagian awal, kerikil curam, serta lereng barat laut yang sering menyimpan salju/es sehingga butuh crampon meski musim panas
Best Season: Pertengahan Juli–September; awal musim bisa masih bersalju/es di sisi barat laut
Permits & Rules: Tidak perlu izin khusus; umum bermalam di Rifugio Galassi (Forcella Piccola, 2.018 m). Pemandu alpine sangat disarankan bagi yang kurang berpengalaman
Hazards: Cengia dan bagian terpapar di awal/akhir jalur, batu lepas, kerikil curam, salju/es abadi di lereng barat laut, dan perubahan cuaca cepat

Description

Antelao (3,264 m) is the second-highest peak in the Dolomites after the Marmolada and the highest in the Cadore area, earning it the nickname "Re delle Dolomiti" — King of the Dolomites. It rises grandly in Belluno province, Veneto, above San Vito di Cadore and Pieve di Cadore. Its normal route sets off from San Vito di Cadore and in about 3.5 hours reaches the Rifugio Galassi at Forcella Piccola (2,018 m), where climbers usually spend the night. From there the route to the summit crosses exposed ledges and grade I rock in its lower section, then an increasingly steep, gravelly ridge, reaching the top in roughly 3.5–4.5 hours from the hut. Though not extremely technical, the combination of altitude, exposure and a north-west flank that often holds snow or thin ice means crampons are frequently needed even in summer — Antelao is considered one of the most demanding yet rewarding Dolomite three-thousanders.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Via Normale — dari San Vito di Cadore lewat Rifugio Galassi (Forcella Piccola)

Alpine — batu grade I & cengia terpapar, kerikil curam; crampon sering perlu (salju/es sisa di lereng barat laut)

2 hari; ±3,5 jam ke Rifugio Galassi, lalu ±3,5–4,5 jam rifugio→puncak

Rute pendakian utama Antelao. Dari San Vito di Cadore, jalur mendaki sekitar 3,5 jam ke Rifugio Galassi di Forcella Piccola (2.018 m), tempat umum bermalam. Keesokan dini hari, jalur menuju puncak melewati cengia terpapar dan batu grade I di bagian awal, lalu punggungan berkerikil yang makin curam, hingga puncak 3.264 m dicapai sekitar 3,5–4,5 jam dari rifugio. Bukan teknis berat namun sangat terpapar; lereng barat laut sering menyimpan salju/es sehingga crampon kerap diperlukan bahkan di musim panas.

Source

Via normale — pendekatan & catatan itinerari alternatif

Alpine terpapar, grade I; disarankan pemandu bagi yang kurang berpengalaman

±7–9 jam total mendaki (di luar bermalam)

Deskripsi jalur via normale yang sama dengan penekanan pada logistik pendekatan dari San Vito di Cadore dan Rifugio Galassi, rincian bagian terpapar "Le Laste", serta anjuran perlengkapan (crampon, helm) dan penggunaan pemandu alpine. Berguna sebagai rujukan kondisi medan dan waktu tempuh.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Experiences on Antelao are remarkably uniform: the normal route from San Vito di Cadore, an overnight at the Rifugio Galassi (Forcella Piccola), then a pre-dawn summit push across exposed ledges, grade I rock and a gravelly ridge to 3,264 m. Italian climbers' videos emphasise the exposed "Le Laste" section, lingering snow/ice on the north-west flank, and the Cadore panoramas from the King of the Dolomites. Most footage is in Italian by local climbers and guides, with a few English-language vlogs highlighting the route's exposure.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.