GUNUNG · Nepal

Annapurna II

Annapurna II (अन्नपूर्ण द्वितीय)

Annapurna II dilihat dari Chame di lembah Marsyangdi / Annapurna II seen from Chame in the Marsyangdi valley — Wikimedia Commons. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.937 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Annapurna Himal, Himalaya, Nepal
Mountain type: Puncak batu, salju, dan es non-vulkanik / Non-volcanic rock, snow and ice peak
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.5381, 84.1350
Difficulty: Ekspedisi teknis di ketinggian ekstrem / Technical expedition at extreme altitude
Best Season: Pendakian historis Mei dan Oktober; kondisi harus dinilai per ekspedisi / Historical ascents in May and October; assess conditions for each expedition
Permits & Rules: Izin masuk kawasan konservasi Annapurna diperlukan; konfirmasikan perizinan ekspedisi puncak secara terpisah dengan otoritas Nepal / Annapurna conservation-area entry permit required; confirm summit-expedition authorization separately with Nepalese authorities
Hazards: Cornice, longsoran, jatuhan batu, badai dan ketinggian ekstrem; tercatat dalam laporan ekspedisi / Cornices, avalanches, rockfall, storms and extreme altitude documented in expedition reports

Description

Annapurna II (7,937 m) is a non-volcanic peak in Nepal’s Annapurna Himal, standing at the eastern end of the Annapurna group. Richard Grant, Chris Bonington and Ang Nyima reached the summit on 17 May 1960 in an expedition led by Jimmy Roberts. Their route approached Annapurna IV from the north, bypassed its summit on a shoulder, and followed the west ridge to Annapurna II’s summit pyramid. An Australian team summited by the south face and spur on 8 October 1983 after storms, rockfall and an avalanche. The 2008 AAJ report documents the first winter ascent in February 2007. These accounts describe technical climbing and expedition logistics, distinct from Annapurna Circuit trekking in the valley.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding dan taji Selatan / South Face and Spur

Teknis; bahaya objektif tinggi / Technical; serious objective hazards

Dorongan dari Camp III 6–8 Oktober 1983 / Camp III summit push, 6–8 October 1983

Tim Macartney-Snape’s Australian team climbed the south face and spur in 1983. Four climbers left Camp III on 6 October, spent two bivouac nights and summited on 8 October. The report records storms, rockfall and an avalanche; these dates describe that expedition, not a present-day itinerary estimate.

Source

Punggungan Barat via bahu Annapurna IV / West Ridge via Annapurna IV shoulder

Teknis, ketinggian ekstrem / Technical, extreme altitude

Ekspedisi; durasi bergantung kondisi / Expedition; duration depends on conditions

The 1960 route approaches Annapurna IV from the north and bypasses its summit on a shoulder. The connecting ridge loses height before reaching Annapurna II’s summit pyramid. Cornices, steep ice steps and a rock rib require alpine technique; this is a historical description, not current navigation guidance.

Source

Safety Statistics

Aggregated for prevention and awareness — not a casualty list. Read alongside the safety tips below.

Indicative — small sample size.

3.57% Fatality rate per recorded attempt

6 Recorded deaths

168 Attempts

Period 1950–2006 · Historical Himalayan Database data for 1950–2006: 6 deaths / N=168 expedition-member participations above base camp, 3.57% (Appendix A pp. 136–137; Table D-5 p. 156). Attempt here means a member participation above base camp, not an expedition or unique individual; hired personnel are excluded. Indicative because there were only six fatalities and the period is old; this does not predict present climbing risk. Internal cross-checks agree, but independent confirmation for the same period and population was not found. Hazards below are narrative, not a breakdown of those six deaths. · single source

Causes of death

Avalanche

💡 AAJ 1981 reports a climb halted after avalanche injuries; prevention lesson: assess avalanche exposure on the approach and stop when conditions do not support proceeding.
Source
Severe weather

💡 The AAJ 1987 account records unstable snow and high winds before the team withdrew; prevention lesson: preserve time for descent and be prepared to abandon the summit objective as conditions worsen.
Source

Statistics source: Source

Climbing Experiences

Expedition reports cover the 1960 first ascent, the 1969 repeat, the 1983 southern route and the 2007 winter ascent. The two 1960 accounts concern the same expedition; the anniversary video complements the archive rather than reporting current conditions.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.