GUNUNG · Bolivia
Ancohuma
Janq'u Uma
Source
Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 6.425 m
- Country
- Bolivia (BO)
- Location / Range
- Cordillera Real
- Mountain type
- Gunung
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- -15.8533, -68.5408
- Difficulty
- Berat (glasier, ketinggian ekstrem, pendekatan panjang)
- Best Season
- Mei–September (musim kering Andes)
Description
Ancohuma—Janq'u Uma in Aymara, "white water"—is the third-highest mountain in Bolivia after Sajama and Illimani, at roughly 6,425 m. It rises in the northern Cordillera Real of the Andes, east of Lake Titicaca and just south of the slightly lower Illampu, near the town of Sorata. Although higher than Illampu, Ancohuma is the gentler peak, with less local relief and an easier climb. The first recorded ascent was in 1919 by Rudolf Dienst and Adolf Schulze via the southwest face (rated PD), still the easiest line. Approaches from Sorata—from either the west or the northeast—take two to three days, making it a long, remote glaciated expedition objective.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Cara Barat langsung (dari Laguna Glaciar)
AD (salju curam)Pendakian langsung dari sisi barat lewat salju beku padat dengan turun via punggungan barat daya dan rappel, dijelaskan dalam laporan trip Illampu–Ancohuma 2009 di SummitPost.
Punggungan Selatan–Tenggara (South-Southeast Ridge)
AD/DJalur punggungan Selatan–Tenggara yang lebih menantang daripada rute normal, didokumentasikan dalam American Alpine Journal sebagai alternatif teknis menuju puncak Ancohuma.
Ruta Normal — Sisi Barat Daya via Laguna Glaciar (dari Sorata)
PD/ADJalur termudah dan paling umum, dirintis pada pendakian pertama 1919. Dari kota Sorata pendaki melewati Laguna Chillata dan Laguna Glaciar, lalu mendaki lereng gletser sisi barat daya. Secara teknis tidak sulit, tetapi sangat panjang dengan medan rekah es dan navigasi jalur yang menuntut.
Climbing Experiences
Ancohuma (~6,425 m), Bolivia's third-highest peak in the Cordillera Real—a remote glaciated objective approached from Sorata over 2–3 days. Climbers highlight the long approach past Laguna Chillata and Laguna Glaciar, heavily crevassed terrain, and its reputation as one of the harder 6,000ers in the range despite a normal route graded only PD/AD.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.