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GUNUNG · Nepal

Ama Dablam

अमा दबलम (Ama Dablam)

Source
Ama Dablam

Photo: source

Information

Elevation
6.812 m
Country
Nepal (NP)
Location / Range
Khumbu Himal, Himalayas
Mountain type
Himalayan orogenic peak (non-volcanic)
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
27.8611, 86.8614
Difficulty
Hard and technical (alpine rock/ice climbing)
Best Season
April–May & September–October
Permits & Rules
Nepal government climbing permit + liaison officer
Hazards
Steep technical climbing, ice fall from the hanging glacial 'Dablam', exposure on open walls

Description

Ama Dablam is an iconic 6,812-metre peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Its Sherpa name means 'mother's necklace', and its pyramidal shape earns it the nickname 'Matterhorn of the Himalayas'. A non-volcanic orogenic peak first climbed in 1961, it is among the most popular technical climbing objectives in the Himalayas.

Routes

Punggungan Barat Daya (Southwest Ridge) — rute normal

Alpine teknis (umumnya dinilai TD / très difficile); batu, es, dan medan campuran curam pada tali tetap, dengan kemiringan puncak ±45–65°
Ekspedisi total ±25–30 hari; sekitar 10–13 hari aktif mendaki/aklimatisasi dari Base Camp

The Southwest Ridge is Ama Dablam's standard route, first climbed in 1961 and used by virtually all expeditions since. From Base Camp (~4,600 m) climbers move through Camp 1 (~5,700 m), Camp 2 (~6,000 m) atop the granite Yellow Tower, and Camp 3 (~6,300 m) before the summit pyramid. Key technical features are the Yellow Tower, the exposed Mushroom Ridge, and steep snow/ice on summit day, making it a serious but attainable objective for experienced alpine climbers.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Ama Dablam (6,812 m) in the Khumbu Himal is often called the 'Matterhorn of the Himalayas' for its striking, technical rock-and-ice summit pyramid. Though lower than the eight-thousanders, its normal Southwest Ridge route demands rock, ice, and mixed skills on fixed ropes. The videos and guide below document real expeditions — from full summit documentaries to climbers' reflections on a hard summit day. All links are verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Ama Dablam en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikipedia Ama Dablam id.wikipedia.org · ID
  3. 3 Wikidata Ama Dablam (Q451697) wikidata.org · EN
  4. 4 Media Ama Dablam Expedition madisonmountaineering.com · EN