GUNUNG · Peru

Alpamayo

Information

Elevation: 5.947 m
Country: Peru (PE)
Location / Range: Cordillera Blanca, Andes (Huascarán National Park)
Mountain type: Mountain (icy pyramidal peak, metamorphic/granite rock)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: -8.8792, -77.6533
Difficulty: Extremely strenuous (technical alpine, steep ice AD+/D)
Best Season: May–August (Andean dry season)
Permits & Rules: A Huascarán National Park entry ticket (SERNANP) is required and, for technical climbing, a registered UIAGM/AGMP guide is customary. Climbers also register at the park/municipal office in Caraz–Cashapampa.
Hazards: Hanging seracs and cornices above the Southwest Face, icefall, crevasses on the approach glacier, changing flute conditions between seasons, and altitude (full acclimatization needed).

Description

Alpamayo (5,947 m) is a pyramidal ice peak in Peru's Cordillera Blanca, often called "the most beautiful mountain in the world" for its near-symmetrical Southwest Face scored with parallel ice flutes. Though lower than neighbours such as Huascarán, the climb is highly technical: the classic lines ascend roughly 400–450 m of snow and ice at 50–70 degrees. Expeditions typically start from Cashapampa up the Santa Cruz valley to base camp, then a moraine camp and col camp before summit day. The two best-known lines on the Southwest Face are the Ferrari Route (opened by an Italian team in 1975) and the more direct French Direct, both demanding two-tool ice technique and careful management of overhead serac hazard.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

French Direct

D / D+ (alpine Prancis); es 50–65°, WI3

Hari puncak ~6–8 jam; ekspedisi total ~5–6 hari hingga 14–16 hari termasuk aklimatisasi

Jalur lurus menaiki couloir di tengah Wajah Barat Daya, kini sering lebih dipilih daripada Ferrari karena garis yang lebih langsung. Berupa salju dan es curam ~50–65° dengan sekitar 10 pitch dan beberapa bagian es WI3. Setelah perubahan kondisi serac di bagian puncak, pemandu kadang membuka variasi satu–dua flut ke kiri dari garis direct.

Source

Ruta Ferrari (Ferrari Route)

AD+ (alpine Prancis); salju/es 50–70°

Ekspedisi ~5–6 hari inti (paket lengkap dengan aklimatisasi ~14–16 hari)

Jalur klasik di Wajah Barat Daya yang dibuka tim Italia pimpinan Casimiro Ferrari (1975) dan paling sering didaki. Berupa dinding salju/es sekitar 400–450 m dengan 7–8 pitch, kemiringan umumnya 50–60° dan bagian mendekati 70°, dengan bahaya objektif serac/cornice gantung. Pendekatan lewat lembah Santa Cruz dari Cashapampa, base camp, moraine camp, lalu kemah kol sebelum hari puncak.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Alpamayo (5,947 m) in the Cordillera Blanca is climbed as a technical alpine expedition: approach up the Santa Cruz valley from Cashapampa, camps at base, moraine and col before summit day. The two classic Southwest Face lines—the Ferrari Route and the French Direct—climb fluted ice at 50–70 degrees beneath overhead serac hazard; climbers emphasize full acclimatization and two-tool ice technique.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.