GUNUNG · Switzerland
Aletschhorn
Aletschhorn (DE)
Source
Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 4.194 m
- Country
- Switzerland (CH)
- Location / Range
- Alpen Bernese (Berner Alpen), Kanton Valais — kawasan Warisan Dunia UNESCO Jungfrau-Aletsch
- Mountain type
- Puncak batuan beku/metamorf non-vulkanik — Alpen Bernese, Valais
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 46.4653, 7.9936
- Difficulty
- Berat (Alpine AD; rute panjang penuh gletser dengan punggung gipfel yang menuntut; wajib crampon, piolet, tali; jauh dari jalan sehingga butuh stamina ekspedisi glasial)
- Best Season
- Maret–Mei untuk ski-hochtour; akhir Juni–September untuk pendakian musim panas (kondisi gletser paling stabil)
- Permits & Rules
- Tanpa izin puncak; menginap di Mittelaletsch-Biwak (3.013 m), Oberaletschhütte (2.640 m), atau Konkordiahütte (2.850 m) — reservasi disarankan
- Hazards
- Gletser luas dengan celah (Aletsch, Mittelaletsch, Oberaletsch); jarak pendekatan sangat panjang dan terpencil; punggung gipfel terpapar; risiko cuaca dan whiteout di dataran gletser besar; longsoran salju pada jalur ski di musim semi
Description
The Aletschhorn (4,194 m) is the second-highest peak of the Bernese Alps after the Finsteraarhorn, and the only one of the higher summits lying entirely within the Swiss canton of Valais. It stands at the heart of the UNESCO Jungfrau-Aletsch World Heritage Site and shares its name with the Aletsch Glacier — the longest glacier in the Alps — which flows at its foot. Because of its central position between the main Bernese Alps ridge and the Pennine chain, the Aletschhorn has long been praised for commanding one of the finest panoramas of any Alpine summit. Its first ascent was made on 18 June 1859 by the English alpinist Francis Fox Tuckett with guides Johann Josef Bennen, Peter Bohren and Victor Tairraz. Unlike its neighbour the Jungfrau, easily reached by mountain railway, the Aletschhorn remains remote and wild: climbing it demands a long journey across broad glacier plateaux from huts such as the Mittelaletsch Bivouac, the Oberaletsch Hut or the Konkordia Hut. Its normal route — the Hasler Rib (Haslerrippe) on the north-east side — is an AD-grade snow-and-ice line finishing on a demanding summit ridge. In spring the Aletschhorn is a classic, long and committing ski-mountaineering objective.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Haslerrippe (Punggung Hasler) — Rute Normal Timur Laut
Berat (Alpine AD; salju dan es dengan bagian batu campuran pada rusuk; punggung gipfel terpapar; pendekatan gletser panjang)The Hasler Rib (Haslerrippe) is the normal route on the Aletschhorn from the north-east, following a snow-and-ice rib splitting the mountain's face. The approach is long and remote: from the Aletsch/Konkordia area, climbers reach the Mittelaletsch Bivouac (3,013 m) across the Mittelaletsch Glacier. Day two starts in the early hours, climbing the Hasler Rib — a mix of steep snow and mixed rock — to the exposed summit ridge that finishes at the 4,194 m top. Being far from any mountain-railway infrastructure, the route demands glacial stamina and self-reliance; whiteout on the broad glacier plateaux is a serious navigation risk. The panorama from the summit — often called one of the finest in the Alps — rewards the commitment required.
Route Segments
- 1
Konkordia / Aletsch → Mittelaletsch-Biwak (3.013 m)
Menyeberangi Gletser Mittelaletsch; roping up wajib; biwak kecil tanpa penjaga, kapasitas terbatas
- 2
Biwak → dasar Haslerrippe
Naik melalui gletser atas menuju kaki rusuk; kondisi bergschrund menentukan akses ke rusuk
- 3
Haslerrippe (salju-es + batu campuran)
Rusuk curam dan konsisten; crampon dan piolet; belay pada bagian campuran; paparan meningkat ke atas
- 4
Punggung gipfel → Puncak Aletschhorn (4.194 m)
Punggung salju terpapar di kedua sisi; panorama Alpen Bernese & Pennine; turun via jalur yang sama
Ski-Hochtour Musim Semi dari Lötschental / Oberaletsch
Berat (ski-hochtour, ketinggian ski hingga dekat punggung gipfel lalu pendakian alpine; wajib teknik gletser & ski touring)In spring (around March–May), the Aletschhorn becomes one of the longest and most prestigious ski tours in the Bernese Alps. The common approach uses the Oberaletsch Hut (2,640 m) at the end of the Oberaletsch Glacier or comes from the Lötschental, then climbs on touring skis across broad glacier plateaux to near the summit ridge. The final section — the exposed summit ridge — is usually completed on foot with crampons and ice axe, being too steep and narrow for skis. The route's length, vertical gain and remoteness make it an objective for experienced ski-alpinists; spring snow conditions and avalanche risk must be judged carefully. The ski descent from altitude offers one of the grandest glacier-skiing experiences in the Jungfrau-Aletsch World Heritage area.
Route Segments
- 1
Lötschental / lembah → Oberaletschhütte (2.640 m)
Pendekatan ski/kaki tergantung kondisi salju; kabin SAC, reservasi disarankan musim semi
- 2
Kabin → dataran gletser atas dengan ski touring
Ski touring melintasi gletser luas; roping up di zona celah; navigasi kritis saat whiteout
- 3
Depot ski → punggung gipfel (kaki, crampon)
Ganti ke crampon/piolet; punggung terlalu curam untuk ski; paparan tinggi
- 4
Punggung gipfel → Puncak (4.194 m) & turunan ski
Puncak lalu turun ke depot ski dan meluncur dari ketinggian; nilai kondisi longsoran salju musim semi
Climbing Experiences
The Aletschhorn (4,194 m) is a remote and highly committing high-mountain objective — far from the railways and gondolas that serve its neighbour, the Jungfrau. Climbing it demands a long journey across broad glacier plateaux in the UNESCO Jungfrau-Aletsch World Heritage Site, usually from the Mittelaletsch Bivouac (3,013 m), the Oberaletsch Hut (2,640 m) or the Konkordia Hut (2,850 m). Its normal route, the Hasler Rib on the north-east side, is an AD-grade snow-and-ice line finishing on an exposed summit ridge. In spring the Aletschhorn is one of the longest and most prestigious ski tours in the Bernese Alps. The documentation below shows the reality of both summer ascents and ski touring on this wild, silent mountain.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.