GUNUNG · Switzerland

Aletschhorn

Information

Elevation: 4.194 m
Country: Switzerland (CH)
Location / Range: Alpen Bernese, Valais
Mountain type: Puncak non-vulkanik
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.4653, 7.9936
Difficulty: Alpinisme AD− / 2a pada rusuk barat daya menurut SAC; pendakian panjang dengan medan gletser dan batuan.
Best Season: Pendakian musim panas dan ski-alpinisme musim semi bergantung kondisi salju serta gletser; catatan perjalanan historis bukan prakiraan kondisi.
Permits & Rules: Oberaletschhütte menjadi basis rute barat daya. Mittelaletschbiwak hancur oleh longsoran pada 2019; portal SAC mencatatnya tutup dan status pembangunan kembali belum jelas pada 2025.
Hazards: Celah gletser, bergschrund, batu lepas dan kesulitan navigasi ketika jarak pandang buruk; salju lunak dapat memperlambat turun. Akses morena berubah akibat penyusutan gletser.

Description

Aletschhorn in the Swiss canton of Valais is the second-highest summit of the Bernese Alps after Finsteraarhorn. Wikidata records an elevation of 4,194 m, while the SAC route portal uses 4,193 m. It lies in the Jungfrau-Aletsch region amid the Aletsch glacier system. SAC describes the southwest rib from the Oberaletsch Hut as a long normal route, graded AD− / 2a with an estimated 6–7 hours for the ascent alone. Glacier, moraine and rocky terrain are involved; an access revision in 2022 illustrates why recent condition information matters. The Mittelaletsch Bivouac is not available accommodation: SAC records its destruction in 2019 and lists it as closed, with rebuilding still uncertain in its 2025 note.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Südwestrippe — rute normal dari Oberaletschhütte

AD−, 2a (SAC)

+1700 m 6–7 jam naik dari pondok menurut SAC; turun dan pendekatan pondok belum termasuk

SAC describes the southwest normal route from the Oberaletsch Hut as a long ascent with about 1,700 m of height gain and an estimated 6–7 hours uphill. It involves the Oberaletsch Glacier, moraine, rocky terrain and a snow crossing near P.3396 before the upper rib. SAC notes a new moraine access in 2022 and iron poles on the upper third for orientation; these do not remove route-finding difficulties in poor visibility. The snow crossing can become awkward when icy. Descent time and the valley-to-hut approach require separate planning.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Three videos and three firsthand trip reports document Aletschhorn in different seasons and conditions. Accounts from 2009, 2022 and 2024 provide context on long summit days, navigation, loose rock and changing snow; their measurements and observations describe those individual trips rather than current conditions.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.