GUNUNG · Iran

Alam-Kuh

علم‌کوه (Alam-Kūh / Alam Kooh)

Information

Elevation: 4.848 m
Country: Iran (IR)
Location / Range: Pegunungan Alborz (Alborz Tengah), Provinsi Mazandaran, distrik Kelardasht
Mountain type: Puncak granit (non-vulkanik) di Massif Takht-e Suleyman
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 36.3758, 50.9625
Difficulty: Bervariasi — rute selatan (Hesarchal) relatif non-teknis untuk pendaki berpengalaman; dinding utara granit setinggi ±800 m termasuk medan teknis tersulit di Iran
Best Season: Musim panas (Juli–September) untuk rute normal; dinding utara didaki tim alpine musim panas & pendakian es/salju musim dingin
Permits & Rules: Umumnya lewat federasi/klub kohnavardi setempat; base camp populer di lembah Hesarchal (Sarchal). Registrasi & pemandu lokal dianjurkan
Hazards: Ketinggian & cuaca cepat berubah Alborz, jatuhan batu (tali tetap sempat rusak parah akibat gempa 2004), medan bersalju & gletser abadi, kabut

Description

Alam-Kuh (about 4,848 m; commonly cited as 4,848–4,850 m) is Iran's second-highest peak after Damavand and the high point of the Takht-e Suleyman Massif in the Alborz range, Mazandaran Province (Kelardasht District). Unlike volcanic Damavand, Alam-Kuh is a granite peak; its roughly 800 m north face is regarded as some of the hardest technical mountaineering terrain in Iran and is often compared to major Alpine routes, drawing European teams alongside local climbers. The first recorded ascent was by the German Bornmüller brothers from the south over Hesarchal in 1902 during a botanical expedition, while the first north-face ascent was by a German party (Gorter/Steinauer) in 1936 via the northwest ridge. The south route from the Hesarchal valley is the more popular normal line, whereas the north-side 'German Ridge' (Gerde Almanha) is an iconic technical route. A magnitude 6.3 earthquake in 2004 badly damaged fixed ropes and briefly closed the mountain due to rockfall.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Utara — 'Gerde Almanha' (Punggung Jerman)

Sangat sulit (big wall granit ±800 m, teknis)

Ekspedisi teknis (multi-hari)

Alam-Kuh's roughly 800 m north face is among the hardest granite climbing terrain in Iran, often compared to major Alpine routes. 'Gerde Almanha' (the German Ridge) refers to the classic line on this side; the first north ascent was by a German party (Gorter/Steinauer) in 1936 via the northwest ridge. It draws European and local alpine teams and demands technical climbing skill and rockfall-hazard management.

Source

Rute Selatan Normal (lembah Hesarchal / Sarchal)

Non-teknis hingga sedang (pendaki berpengalaman)

±2–3 hari (pendekatan + puncak, dengan aklimatisasi)

Alam-Kuh's normal route ascends from the Hesarchal (Sarchal) valley on the south side — the line of the first recorded ascent (the Bornmüller brothers, 1902). From the Hesarchal base camp climbers reach the 4,848 m summit over rocky and high snow/glacier terrain. It is the most popular and relatively non-technical line compared with the north face, though it still demands acclimatization and care with Alborz weather.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Alam-Kuh (about 4,848 m), Iran's second-highest granite peak in the Alborz. The videos below document real experiences — from summit and Takht-e Suleyman area views to an expedition to the 4,848 m top, and a climb of the classic 'German Ridge' route on the north side.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.