GUNUNG · France
Aiguille Verte
Aiguille Verte (FR)
Source
Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 4.122 m
- Country
- France (FR)
- Location / Range
- Massif Mont Blanc (Haute-Savoie, Alpen Prancis)
- Mountain type
- Puncak batuan beku granit non-vulkanik — Massif Mont Blanc, Alpen
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 45.9347, 6.9700
- Difficulty
- Sangat berat (Alpine AD hingga D+ tergantung jalur; tidak ada rute yang benar-benar mudah — semua jalur menuntut keahlian es, salju curam, dan batu campuran; paparan objektif tinggi terhadap batu jatuh)
- Best Season
- Akhir Juni–September untuk jalur salju/campuran; jalur es seperti Couloir Couturier sering paling aman di awal musim atau kondisi beku
- Permits & Rules
- Tanpa izin puncak; reservasi wajib di Refuge du Couvercle (2.687 m) dan Refuge d'Argentière (2.771 m) pada musim ramai
- Hazards
- Batu jatuh (rockfall) terkenal parah di Couloir Whymper terutama di siang hari; couloir es curam 45–55°; celah gletser di Talèfre dan Argentière; cuaca cepat berubah di ketinggian 4.000 m; sejarah panjang kecelakaan fatal menjadikannya salah satu 4000-an paling serius di Alpen
Description
The Aiguille Verte (4,122 m) — the 'Green Needle' — is one of the most iconic and respected peaks of the Mont Blanc massif, rising above Chamonix on the French Haute-Savoie side. Although the name is usually read as 'green', some scholars suggest the root 'ver/var' derives from a pre-Celtic term meaning 'high place'. Its summit was first reached on 29 June 1865 by Edward Whymper with guides Christian Almer and Franz Biner, via the steep couloir that now bears Whymper's name. The Aiguille Verte is famous for having no genuinely easy route: every line demands a combination of ice climbing, steep snow and mixed rock, making the mountain a true test-piece for Alpine climbers. Its two legendary ice lines — the Couturier Couloir on the north-west face (a ±700 m ice runnel of 45–55°) and the Whymper Couloir — are dream objectives for ice climbers. Neighbouring summits such as the Grande Rocheuse (4,102 m) and the Aiguille du Jardin (4,035 m) share the same crest. The main bases are the Refuge du Couvercle (2,687 m) above the Talèfre Glacier and the Refuge d'Argentière (2,771 m) on the north side. Its reputation for seriousness and a long history of accidents lead many alpinists to rank the Aiguille Verte among the most demanding 4,000ers in the entire Alps.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Couloir Couturier — Kolom Es Klasik Muka Barat Laut
Sangat berat (Alpine D; kolom es ±700 m dengan kemiringan 45–55°; wajib teknik es, dua piolet pada bagian curam)The Couturier Couloir — named after alpinist Marcel Couturier — is one of the most legendary ice lines of the Mont Blanc massif, running up the north-west face of the Aiguille Verte above the Argentière Glacier. The approach uses the Grands Montets cable car, then descends to the Argentière Glacier and the Refuge d'Argentière (2,771 m). Day two climbs the ±700 m ice runnel at a sustained 45–55° — a long, exposed ice climb that is safest in firm early-season conditions. The upper section finishes near the Aiguille Verte summit (4,122 m) or the neighbouring Grande Rocheuse. The Couturier is also one of the most respected steep-ski descents in the Alps for elite ski-alpinists. Ice conditions and temperature are decisive for safety.
Route Segments
- 1
Grands Montets → Refuge d'Argentière (2.771 m)
Turun ke Gletser Argentière lalu naik ke kabin; roping up di gletser; kabin dikelola FFCAM
- 2
Argentière → dasar Couloir Couturier
Menyeberangi bergschrund di dasar couloir; kondisi bergschrund menentukan aksesibilitas
- 3
Couloir Couturier (±700 m, 45–55°)
Pendakian es panjang dan konsisten; dua piolet pada bagian curam; paparan tinggi; belay pada bagian kritis
- 4
Keluar couloir → Puncak Aiguille Verte (4.122 m)
Punggung salju/batu terpapar menuju puncak; turun umumnya via Couloir Whymper atau rappel — perencanaan turun kritis
Couloir Whymper — Jalur Bersejarah Pendakian Pertama (1865)
Sangat berat (Alpine AD+/D; couloir salju/es 45–50° dengan bagian batu campuran; rawan batu jatuh — wajib start sebelum fajar)The Whymper Couloir is the first-ascent route of the Aiguille Verte, climbed by Edward Whymper with Christian Almer and Franz Biner on 29 June 1865. The approach starts from Chamonix to Montenvers (rack railway), then crosses the Mer de Glace and Talèfre Glacier to the Refuge du Couvercle (2,687 m). Day two begins long before dawn to cross the couloir while the snow and ice are still frozen and rockfall risk is lowest. The couloir rises about 500 m at 45–50°, with mixed rock sections above, leading to the final ridge and the 4,122 m summit. Descending the same line demands speed before the sun softens the couloir. The route remains serious despite being the 'normal' one: rockfall is the main hazard, and many fatal accidents have been recorded here over the years.
Route Segments
- 1
Montenvers / Mer de Glace → Refuge du Couvercle (2.687 m)
Menyeberangi Mer de Glace lalu tangga besi dan jalur setapak menuju kabin; Couvercle dikelola FFCAM, reservasi wajib musim panas
- 2
Couvercle → dasar Couloir Whymper via Gletser Talèfre
Roping up di gletser; celah bervariasi tiap musim; tiba di dasar couloir saat masih gelap untuk kondisi beku
- 3
Couloir Whymper → punggung akhir
Couloir 45–50°, ±500 m; bahaya batu jatuh meningkat drastis setelah matahari naik; kecepatan kritis
- 4
Punggung akhir → Puncak Aiguille Verte (4.122 m)
Batu campuran dan salju terpapar menuju puncak; pemandangan Massif Mont Blanc; turun via jalur yang sama
Climbing Experiences
The Aiguille Verte (4,122 m) draws the most experienced alpinists from around the world precisely because it offers no easy route. The main base is Chamonix, with climbs starting from the Refuge du Couvercle (2,687 m) above the Talèfre Glacier for the Whymper Couloir, or from the Refuge d'Argentière (2,771 m) for the Couturier Couloir on the north-west face. The Couturier Couloir — a ±700 m ice runnel of 45–55° — is one of the most legendary ski descents and ice climbs of the Mont Blanc massif, while the historic Whymper Couloir is notorious for rockfall and demands a pre-dawn start while conditions are still frozen. The videos below show the variety of routes and real conditions on this mountain — from summer ascents to steep skiing.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.