GUNUNG · Nepal

Lobuche (Lobuche East)

लोबुचे (Lobuche)

Information

Elevation: 6.119 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Khumbu Himal, Mahalangur, Himalaya
Mountain type: Puncak orogenik Himalaya (non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.9595, 86.7899
Difficulty: Trekking peak alpine (PD+) — lereng salju ~45° dan ridge salju terekspos
Best Season: Musim semi (Maret–Mei) & musim gugur (September–November)
Permits & Rules: Izin pendakian Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA, trekking peak) + tiket Taman Nasional Sagarmatha
Hazards: Crevasse di lereng pendekatan, ridge salju tajam yang terekspos, false summit yang menyesatkan, paparan ketinggian >6.000 m

Description

Lobuche is a mountain in the Khumbu region of Nepal, close to the Khumbu Glacier and the village of Lobuche on the route to Everest Base Camp. It has two main summits: Lobuche East (6,119 m), classified by the Nepal Mountaineering Association as a 'trekking peak', and the higher, far more technical Lobuche West (6,145 m), classified as an 'expedition peak'. Lobuche East is climbed far more often and is one of the most popular 6,000-metre peaks for climbers seeking real high-altitude mountaineering and acclimatisation before higher objectives such as Everest or Ama Dablam. Many commercial climbers in fact only reach a false summit still a few hours from Lobuche East's true top; a long, deeply notched ridge separates the two peaks, making an approach to the West summit from the East practically impossible. The standard route climbs rocky terraces and snow slopes on the south-west face to gain the exposed South Ridge.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Lobuche East (~6.119 m) vs Lobuche West (~6.145 m)

East: trekking peak PD+; West: expedition peak, jauh lebih teknis

East: summit day 8–12 jam; West: lebih panjang & teknis

Lobuche has two summits: the popular Lobuche East trekking peak, suitable for climbers with basic alpine skills, and the higher Lobuche West, classified as an expedition peak. A long, deeply notched ridge with a steep drop separates them, making an approach to the West summit from the East practically impossible. Most commercial climbing targets the East summit.

Source

South Ridge (rute normal) via Lobuche High Camp

Trekking peak (NMA) — alpine PD+ (lereng salju ~45°, ridge salju terekspos)

Hari summit 8–12 jam pulang-pergi dari high camp; total ekspedisi ~16–18 hari termasuk trek Everest Base Camp

Lobuche East's standard route climbs rocky terraces and snow slopes on the south-west face to gain the South Ridge, then follows a sharp snow ridge on fixed ropes to the summit. It is graded PD+ on the alpine scale with ~45° snow slopes and an exposed ridge. The summit push usually starts in the small hours from high camp; many commercial climbers stop at a false summit still a few hours from the true top. It serves well as an introduction to mountaineering and acclimatisation before higher peaks.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Lobuche East (6,119 m) is a very popular Khumbu trekking peak used as an introduction to high-altitude mountaineering and acclimatisation before bigger objectives. The summit day usually starts in the small hours from high camp, crossing ~45° snow-ice slopes and an exposed ridge on fixed ropes. The videos and guides below document real summit pushes, summit panoramas toward Everest–Lhotse–Ama Dablam, and the technical character of the standard route. All links have been verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.